Bicycling North to South in Montana

Sunday, September 11, 2011 -

Bicycle van, luggage van and shuttle van is getting packed. Traveling from Bozeman, Montana to Glacier National Park with 14 in the van. 12 riders and 2 support staff. I am one of the support staff being the photojournalist as well as the shuttle van driver and sweeper vehicle during the race. A 15 person van is nothing to drive, having driven farm equipment including semi-trucks full of grain.

55 riders treking from Glacier Park to Yellowstone National Park for CASA. Riding 60-100 miles a day, these riders are in top shape for the ride.

Myself, more of a casual rider. Might stop and take a photo. That damn camera is so much fun. I am writing and photographing the ride as well the state of Montana from north to south. Will add a new note each day. Look for fun, unique and out of the norm photos and topics.

The first stop, Townsend, Montana, a potty break. Switch sitting arrangements, long legs moving to find spots to fit. Everyone is starting to wake up, the nervousness of meeting one another; apprehension over the ride is subsiding. Riders are getting to know one another in a way that only a 15-passenger van can provide. Closeness.

Onward we go to Great Falls, Montana for lunch and fuel. Lunch in Great Falls, the little towns north of Great Falls may not be able to handle the 14 people that want to eat and eat and a little more eat. These boys, well men, in the van can certainly eat.

Cutting north on 89 to Vaughn and through Choteau, Montana. No more Interstate, now it is two lane the rest of the way north. Choteau is like Mayberry RFD, with Barney and Andy Griffith characters ready to greet us.

Then the trek along side the Rocky Mountains, into Browning with the last stop for fuel. No fuel north of Browning, so fill it up or walk.

We stopped in Dupuyer, the one restaurant in town, potty break and beverages. Sweet little town, not much in the way of activity on a warm Sunday afternoon in September.

Finally through the winding, skinny road to St. Mary. The Rocky Mountains are beautiful, shaded by forest fire smoke, but still majestic and beautiful.

What a welcome site to see the KOA at St. Mary. Registrations, get riders gear, shirts, and information for the ride, cabins, and put your feet up. Everything that went into the luggage truck now comes out. Bikes, luggage, sleeping bags, food for the trip, and more boxes than one thought could ever fit into the truck.

Barbecue dinner provided by the KOA at St. Mary’s. Food at the end of a long day, tastes so good. Support team meeting for tomorrow concerning road construction and possible bike road changes due to the construction. Load up vehicles with proper gear to assist bikers along the way, then to the cabin for a little photo work and off to bed.

The cabin is so cute, small and quaint. Log interior, log beds as well as a log lamp with dead bugs. Why do cabins have dead bugs? Throw out my sleeping bag and call it a night. Will sleep well tonight.

See you tomorrow. Tomorrow nights stay is in Dupuyer.

Monday, September 12, 2011

Good morning. Ahh it is a beautiful day. Fog creeping over the top of the Rocky Mountains. No wind and sun is peaking through the fog. Back is a little stiff this morning. Drink water, stretch and coffee along with some food and ready for a great day.

Last minute getting each of the support vehicles stocked with food, tire pumps, blankets, and water. Water, where is the water? Each support vehicle is checked for the missing water. Last truck to be checked for the water is the luggage van. Well of course, the luggage van is fully packed with spare bikes and the entire luggage. The water, yep, you guessed it at the front of the van, oh not in the front of the van like inside the van, oh no in the back of the van in the front of all the packed items. Not a problem, unpack the van and find the water at the front of the van. Remember first in, last out. Ok, little snag, not a problem. Get the water, repack the truck, and on we go.

Riders are ready and nervous. Tires are aired up, riders have coffee, breakfast burritos and they are ready.

The Blackfeet Tribe is giving us a blessing ceremony this morning. The women, Betty and her daughter Thia are present to pray for us and bless us with their tribal plant smoke and eagle feathers. Betty talks and tells us about her tribe, her mission, her work and her life. Thia goes around the circle of riders, waves the burning incense of plants around each biker, touching them with her eagle feathers and prays individually for them. She prays for safety, strength, guidance, doing their best and enjoying what mother nature will provide them today in the way of beautiful landscape and nature. During the ceremony a bicycle tire pops, everyone looks over to their bike to see which tire went flat. No one leaves the circle.

Then they are off. 53 riders off and running, no wait, off and peddling. Out of St, Mary and onto Duck Lake road with the Rocky Mountains in the background. The sun is bright and beautiful with just a touch of a cool breeze. Perfect, perfect!!!

Riding over Duck Lake a huge, no I mean a huge bull elk stands along side the road in the pasture as if he is to be present for the riders.

Lunch is in Browning at the Blackfoot Museum. Free admission to the Museum for all riders as well as use of their restrooms. Terrific Indian artifacts and tales of the Indians and their native language and clothing are included in the museum.

Back on the road with wind, imagine that wind in Browning, Montana. If you are from Montana that is a no-brainer, wind in Browning is just part of the landscape.

The riders are doing well. A couple of riders from Florida and North Carolina have found the elevation and wind winning for the day. With a rider done for the day in the support van, we take a short detour and some looking for tipi rings. The Heart Butte road is a great little detour, wonderful landscape with pasture land that looks like it goes too the horizon and horses that run and make the landscape some to life. Black, brown, white, black with white spots, brown with white spots of course colts and ponies come to life as we come close to the fence line.

The tipi rings along the road where a winter camp took place with the Indians years ago. The grass has grown over the tipi rings, some of the larger rocks faintly stand higher than the grass.

Back on the route, up one hill, down and up, around a corner and through the woods, wait wrong story, no woods here; it is the plains, miles upon miles of flat land.

Next stop is a metal sculpture of two Indians on their horses looking over the prairie. The stories they must have to tell, the history, the adventure and life that they have lived.

Ah, the day has ended with Dupuyer, Montana our overnight stop. Not much in the way of lodging in Dupuyer, a Bed-and-Breakfast, and some homes opened up to the riders and the community center as well. The support staff receives beds, the top fundraisers receive a bed and the remaining riders sleep in the community center in their sleeping bags on the old, hard wooden floor. Some riders have chosen to sleep in tents, taking in the full moon.

Off to bed, first a shower, a little photo work and off to bed. The shower will feel great after 10 hours on the road. The shower, hum, thought for sure I had this little home to myself, when a voice is heard, as the shower water runs down my back, with of course the bathroom door wide open, “Hi Paul”, I say, “No Paul here, it is Pam”. The voice says, Pam, hum, that is my wife’s name”, I say, “Hum, wrong Pam”, the voice says, “Yes, wrong Pam in deed, I will close the door for you”, “Great”, I say. Hum, wonder who that was?

Goodnight Riders, sleep well and see you tomorrow.

Tuesday, September 13, 2001

Good Morning America, from Dupuyer, Montana. Ah, a quiet evening, no noise in this sleepy little town, nothing but incredibly friendly people. The lawns are groomed, and the town is a welcome site for any travelers through this area.

Breakfast in the Community Hall. Ah, coffee will taste so good. The bike mechanic, Mark, a highway patrol, approaches me and says, “Good Morning, Pam, I hope I did not scare you last night”. Ah the mystery voice from last night. Little uncomfortable exchange, but onward. Now that mystery solved.

Coffee ingested, three large percolating 25+ cup pots per pot, 3 x 25= 75 cups of coffee have been drank this cool, Dupuyer, Montana morning. There will be some potty stops today. The riders are ready to approach another breathtaking, Montana day. The grain fields, some cut, some not will be a great view. Harvesting in northern Montana is still in full swing.

First stop along the road is a pull off along side the road. Farmer John is getting ready to start work for the day. He has his lunch bag packed with food, water and whatever else a farmer needs to stay out in the field until darkness hits or the grain becomes too moist to harvest. We get to talking and he went to a Boy Scout outing with Jerry Black from Shelby and has a grandson who plays for the Bobcats, a redshirt freshman. Wow, what a small world. His farm is out of Bynum, Montana.

Bynum, Montana, what in the world would be Bynum, Montana. Well first, the three things every small, Montana town has; a church, bar and post office. Wait a minute, Bynum, has a rock shop and a dinosaur museum that are both incredible. In the middle of nowhere, and I mean nowhere, here is a rock shop and museum that are terrific. A must stop along the route. Snacks and water along the way for the riders, some info of northern Montana and they are off.

On the road again, that is the song that is being played on the radio. No cell service out here. Bummer!!!! The radio station is on KSEN, Shelby, Montana. My old stomping grounds in high school.

Lunch stop in Choteau, Montana. Choteau, a small Montana town with the courthouse in the middle of the main street, the street goes around the courthouse. This must be a landscape from older towns in Montana. Kalispell, Montana has the same road structure. Lunch is provided by the Methodist Church of Choteau; a wonder spread. They opened their church and parsonage to use for bathrooms and changing of clothing. It is starting to warm up, so shedding of the clothing is taking place.

Down the road we go. Fairfield is our next stop. Did I mention the countryside is beautiful!!! Beauty and no cell service. No cell service can mean many things; no Pandora, no Facebook, no Gmail. Ok, so tune back into KSEN radio, Shelby, Montana. Maybe Fairfield will have some cell service.

Freezeout Lake, a site along the ride route, the locals say that birds migrate to this area and the lake is full of birds at certain times of the year. Hum, must check this out.

Pulled off along side the road and the UPS driver stops and says one of the riders is looking pale, bent over, and bike down. The UPS driver!!! Go UPS!!! Back we go. Eat too fast and pedal to fast, makes for stomach cramps.

Vaughn is our next major stop. Vaughn, Montana. Well, travel with us and see what Vaughn has in store. A Sinclair station, for sure, as they have offered their restrooms for the riders. I have fallen in love with the small towns of northern Montana, so accommodating and eager to assist our riders.

From Vaughn it is Great Falls, Montana and at 5 pm, it is traffic on10th Ave South. So single file and down 10th Ave we go. Cars honk as the trail of riders, with all sorts of colored bicycles and outfits make their way through Great Falls and ride into the Town House Inn with the staff of the Inn clapping and welcoming the riders.

Dinner is provided by the Great Falls CASA organization with Megan from the local television station as the meteorologist giving us our weather report for tomorrow as well as interesting facts about the mountains, weather and what to expect. With dinner done and the evening winding down it is time to post, proof, and call it a night.

Good night and see you tomorrow morning.

Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Sirens, police cars and bicyclists – ah what a site leaving Great Falls, Montana. Breakfast was served by the Great Falls CASA and the TownHouse Inn. Coffee, carbs and that all means another great day of bicycling through the countryside of Montana. All two-lane beautiful landscape today.

Heading towards Highwood, highway 228 this morning. Nothing but cropland as far as the eye can see. Golden colored crop;and, gravel roads leading to farms, and no shoulders on the edge highway.

Belt, Montana was not awake, it seemed, as we rode through town. The wind gently moved the trees, trees that say fall is on the way. The UPS driver waved as he drove down Main Street. Following the Belt Creek flowing along drawing the riders up the hills, stones glisten in the river from the bright sunshine. Landscape is well, I keep saying beautiful and breathtaking, excuse the continuous repeats. Just do not know what else to say.

From Belt is seems like hill after hill. After mile upon mile of hills, it becomes apparent that the hills are truly mountains. The King’s Hill Scenic Byway is scenic and lots of great areas to pull off and see the landscape. The grassland makes a distinct sound, along with the grasshoppers, birds and other animals. Traffic seems to fly by, not taking notice of the small and insignificant sights and sounds of central Montana.

Stops along the way from Belt include the Armington rest area and Sluice Boxes State Park, scenic turnout that looks out over a canyon with trails and an old railroad line no longer in use. The Cabin Bar, not open, so no libations today and then into the town of Monarch, Montana. Belt to Monarch seems to take hours, with hill after hill, 24 miles. Tucked nicely in Lewis and Clark National Forest is Monarch, Montana. Along side the road in Monarch, which only stretches a few hundred feet, the town’s cemetery, each person seems to have their own little gated, fenced yard. A quaint and unique spot to stop and ponder the wonders of life.

From Monarch to Neihart traveling along Highway 89 south, 12 beautiful miles, following the Little Belt creek. Life feels slow, easy and well thought out without emotion and calculating the what-ifs in life, rather living day to day and enjoying the beauty that beholds each day. Lunch is in Neihart.

Rest after lunch, allow some of lunch to digest, next 8 miles is a 9% grade, Kings Hill. Not certain why it is called Kings Hill, when it is a mountain pass. Hum…….. Riders gear down and endurance is the factor in this hill. Slow and easy, get the rhythm of the bike and legs into sync with one another. Each corner shows more of the mountain and more climb to the hill, mountain that is. Some make it to the top, some in better condition than others, some take a vehicle to the top. All riders get to the top, 7393 ft elevation. No hero’s on this hill, everyone is a winner. Riders encourage one another and participate in the victory for all at the top.

Once on top of King’s Hill it is snack, water and restroom pit stop. Gather the breathing and get ready for the ride of your life, down the hill. The 9% grade up has a reverse effect of a 6% grade down, a gradual and long grade down. The wind has picked up and blowing up the hill, 15 mph head winds, feels like being pushed up the hill, so unfair. Chilly temps, the sun is getting closer to the top of the mountains, shadows around the corners make it difficult to see until the eyes adjust and then bright sun as the corner is rounded on the opposite side of the mountain. Jackets blowing in the wind, cold cheeks, legs that are numb, arms feeling like they are not a part of the body and eyes buried behind sun glasses, stopping the cold.

Several riders are finding it difficult to make decisions concerning the road, pot holes, shadows and the cold, they take a ride, warm their extremities and take a breath knowing that today was a victory.

Corners, corners and more corners going into White Sulphur Springs, one last hill into town, our stay for the evening. Natural hot springs await the riders today. Dinner at Stage Line Pizza and CASA sharing moments tonight. Someone will share their CASA story.


Good night and see you on Thursday.


Thursday, September 15, 2011

Good Morning White Sulphur Springs. The fog hangs low with the sun creeping over the mountains. 70-80’s for a temp today so the fog will not be around for long.

The Hot Springs were a delight and a new adventure for many of the out-of-state riders as well as the smell of sulphur.

Group photo this morning and then down the road we go. More adventure, beautiful Montana scenery and CASA riders closer to their end destination of Gardiner, Montana. The aches and pains, breathing challenges and bicycle break downs are all in the past.

The fog lifts just a few miles out of town, bright sun and day ahead with more adventures and sites to see. Wait, wait, wait, cattle crossing the road. Let’s restate that cattle were crossing the road until they saw the cyclists and then ran back, got away from the cattlemen and so there you go for another day of moving cattle. Hum….. not sure what the cattlemen think of cyclists.

Ringling, Montana just down the road, the café is not open. The Ringling circus family wintered in this area, also known as the setting in portions of Ivan Doig’s book, This House of Sky. Jimmy Buffett had a song with Ringling as its subject, “Ringling, Ringling”.

Quiet, sleepy town, although the Post Office is open, sorting mail, ready for deliveries to begin. The sun is bright; sunscreen goes on the cyclists at this stop. Layers of clothing are getting lighter, the wind is very light and other than the cattle trucks shipping calves, traffic is light.

Sixteen miles down the road is lunch at the Basin Meadow Ranch. First, though must change out from jeans and long sleeved shirt and go with summer attire. Changing and then the highway patrol stop by to see if any assistance required. No assistance, run along, bother, that was close.

Protein and more protein for lunch, beverages, fruit and desserts will take the cyclists the rest of the way.. Ah, rest; relax, after lunch, loosing 800 ft elevation, 35 miles to go, with Livingston as out destination for the day.

Going through the Shields Valley; pastureland, horses and cattle for miles, with Wilsall and Clyde Park in the heart of the valley. Hills, hay meadows, fence lines, grassland and ranches is about all ya’ see. Cattle trucks on the road with shipping of cattle today and tomorrow in the valley as well as the grain harvest in full swing, moving of machinery on the road, all have been a challenge and/or an obstacle for cyclists. Third hay crop, a rancher along the way told us. In the ranch world, that is a great crop of hay.

15 miles out of Livingston, two-lane highway, following the Yellowstone River, no should, school bus is dropping of children and increased traffic, well the 15 miles and river scenery is encouraging. Almost to Livingston and the towns angry dog, Border collie, is running, barking and nipping at cyclists.

Everyone makes it into Livingston, Quality Inn here we are. Dinner at Clark’s Crossing and Good Night.


Friday, September 16, 2011

Livingston was a stop with memories over the past 4 days. New friends made, and memories that will last a lifetime.

The day started out with rain, clouds and wind. First stop was the Pine Creek area. Café was open with hot coffee, what a welcome site. The beer kegs cool in the little stream just to the side of the café. Looks like a party could burst out at any moment.

On to Chico Hot Springs with a head wind and rain sprinkles that occasionally hit the cyclists glasses, just enough to cause a distraction.

Rest stop lunch is coming up soon. It seems to be official; rain, wind and cool weather. Half way to the end, an ending to a terrific week, emotions and fatigue seem to be taking its toll on the cyclists.

Following the Absaroka Mountain Range and Yellowstone River gives the cyclists comfort that Gardiner and the Arc are soon to be in sight. The rocks that shield corners and wind give cyclists somewhat of a break as the wind swirls through the Yankee Jim Canyon.

All cyclists are 1 mile out of Gardiner with the Arch in sight. Like the sprint to a running race, so goes the cycling sprint to the end. Anyone without energy suddenly has adrenaline to take them in. A crowd has gathered as the cyclists ride Main Street Gardiner and through the Arch. Tourists, family members and friends of cyclists, and Gardiner natives cheer for the cyclists as they make their last pedal to the end. Yellowstone National Park signs greets them as they ride through.

The end. The end indeed. What an honor. Met so many new "friends" from all over the states.